EYES SHAPE & MAKE-UP

Make-up is a perfect invention as it helps to hide imperfections easily and create an image much more attractive than in reality.

It is not much difficult to learn to use optical illusion to your own advantage. Here I will tell you how to improve your eye shape and make your eyes look more beautiful and sexy with the help of shadows, mascara and eyeliner.

Before we begin talking about different eye shapes I want to tell you some little make-up secrets that can be helpful for you in creating a perfect look of yours.

Here they are:

Shadows of dark tones make your eyes visually smaller, deep set, whilst light tints, on the contrary, make them appear bigger. If you want to create the effect of big, attractive eyes, prefer light eyeshadows. Eyeshadows should be applied after an eye pencil or any other kind of eyeliner: this will make your look softer and dreamy. For a more dramatic look, apply eyeliner after the application of eye-shadows.

Don’t forget to curl your eyelashes, and then cover them with a layer of mascara. Avoid lining the inner edge of the lower eyelashes, as it can make your eyes visually smaller.

Wide Set Eyes

You can visually reduce the distance between your eyes. Start at outer corner of eye with medium tint shadow, angling slightly upward. Apply shadow color on entire eyelid as far as crease, blending outward. Spread medium-light toned shadow to brow bone and blend to center of the lid. Apply darker color in the inner corner of the eyelid, going softly along side of bridge of nose into fullest area of brow.

Put darker color from inner corner to the center of your eyelid, blending into medium shade that started from the outer corner. The lightest shade should be concentrated in the center under the brow.

Stay away of adding the lightest shade to outer edges under brow, which would pull your eye outward.

Line eyes completely – top and bottom – from inner to outer corners. Apply mascara. Brush lashes straight up. To make the eyes appear closer together, use mascara generously, on both upper and lower lashes.

Close Set Eyes

Close set eyes are those which are narrower than one eye width.

To correct that with the help of an eyeliner draw a very thin line along the upper eyelashes so that it becomes thicker near the outer corner of your eyes or you may start lining a quarter of the way out from the inner eye corner.

Smudge lines

Put a very thin layer of light eye-shadows from the inner corner of your eyes to the middle of your eyelid. After that apply shadows of darker hues starting from the middle of your eyelid to the outer corner. Blend the colors in the middle of the lids. Mascara both upper and lower lashes but use more mascara on the outer corners.

Deep Set Eyes

If you have deep set eyes, opt for light and nacreous colors of eyeshadows that will help you to make your eyes appear visually bigger. Apply light eyeshadows on the eyelid from the inner corner of your eye slightly angling upward and a bit further.

Apply light colors in the middle of the lid, and darker colors – on and just above the socket line. Blend the darker shade softly up and out.

And put the lightest shade under brow. Remember, dark colors on brow bone will make deep set eyes look even deeper. Avoid using eyeliner on top lids, which will sink eyes further back. But line lower lid under lashes on outer one-third. Then smudge pencil line to just a shadow to minimize heaviness of top brow.

Hooded Eyes

These eyes are set so that natural crease in the eyelid is not readily seen. To make such eyes look more expressive apply a medium to dark shadow on the crease and hooded area.

Then sweep a lighter shadow on the brow bone and on the inside corner of the eye. Draw a very thin line along the top lash line (to keep the eye looking open) and smudge it with a cotton swab.

Apply dense black mascara to upper lashes only.

Asian Eyes

These eyes have a distinctive lift at the corner and have very little lid. To create a better look, apply light eyeshadows on your eyelids. Use an eyeliner to make a thick smoky line along upper eyelashes (the line should be thick enough to be seen well when your eyes are open).

Draw a thinner line under the lower eyelashes. To make your eyes look visually wider put brown eyeshadow on your eyebrows or apply a brown pencil. Cover your eyelashes with two or three layers of dense mascara.

Small Eyes

They are proportionately smaller in comparison to the rest of the facial features.

To enhance small eyes

apply a medium-toned shadow (such as soft grey or blue) to the crease and lighter shadow on the eyelids. Then use a soft-colored liner both on the top and bottom lash lines, extending the top line across the entire lash line. Apply black mascara on upper lashes.

Prominent eyes

These eyes tend to dominate the facial features. The eyelids are too large.

Your best decision is – medium to deep shades of shadow on the lids as they help to minimize the appearance of your lids. Liner when applied to the lash bases from corner to corner gives prominent eyes a smoldering and mysterious look. Finish with a coat of black mascara on both upper and lower lashes.

For Girls Wearing Glasses

If you wear glasses your make-up should depend on the color of the frame. If the frame is bright, you don’t have to add color with eyeshadows.

Pay attention to your eyelashes and put the accent on them. Opt for a black mascara.

To give your eyelashes more volume and make them fluffy, use a dense mascara and apply it from the roots to the tips. Besides, you should correct your brow line as it will be seen before people see your eyes.

Best Bridal Makeup Tips

The big day will soon arrive. Every woman dreams of being a beautiful bride. Sop choosing the right makeup is crucial. A bride needs to have that fresh look and keep it that way through the day. You can either do the makeup yourself or have a beautician do it for you. There are some handy points to note whatever you decide on.

Have a rehearsal of your wedding makeup. Get pictures that you liked from magazines. Show the beautician a picture of your wedding dress. This will give her insight into your theme. Get the right shade of lipstick. You can also know whether it will last all evening. Waterproof mascara is preferred since most brides shed tears of joy.

The foundation should be of the color to match your skin tone. Lighten under eye circles by applying a concealer before the foundation. The foundation and concealer should blend. To allow it to be retained all day, press into your skin a tissue. Than apply a compact. It removes extra oil from the face. 

Apply your blush next. Apply with a brush on the apple of your cheek and taking it up to the temples. Set it with a makeup sponge and blend. Now do your lips. Powder them first to allow it to last all day long.

Then apply the lip pencil, after which fill in with lipstick, blot, powder and apply again. This way the effect lasts longer. Excess wax from the lipstick is thus removed and it will not bleed. 

Brush and color the eyebrows with a shade lighter than your eyebrow hairs. Brush again for a natural look. Use eyeliner and gently line the upper eye starting from the middle. Then line the eye with your mascara. If applying false eyelashes, singles are the best. Make sure everything is blended well.

Theses tips will help to make a beautiful ‘you’ on that special day of your life.

How to Apply Eye Shadow for Asian Eyes

Asian eyes are one of my favourite shapes to apply eye shadows on. Often times, my Asian customers would apologize for having "difficult" eyes to work with. No need to apologize - Asian eyes are a beautiful shape and with the right techniques you can enhance your eyes any way you want to. Lets begin shall we!

1. Tools: You'll need the proper brushes to enhance your beautiful eye shape. I recommend a slanted liner brush like MAC's #266, shading brush to apply colour like MAC's #217, a smudging brush like MAC's #219 and a brush for blending (very important!) like MAC's #224.

2. Prepping: Before applying any type of make-up you must prep your skin with a base. Use an eye cream that de-puffs and minimizes the appearance of dark circles and fine lines. Next prep your eye lid with translucent powder and an eye primer like MAC's Prep + Prime Eye. Priming your lids with a primer will help your shadow blend easily and will prevent fading and creasing.

3. Colours: Some Asian women are golden with yellow undertones and other Asian women are fair-skinned with pink undertones. Either can get away with wearing most colours under the rainbow especially since most have dark hair. For day time choose colours that are neutral like champagnes, taupes, and chocolate browns. If you have a pinker undertone stay away from anything with a pink or reddy base. Opt for more yellow based browns and beige tones. If your skin tone is more golden or yellow, stay away from colours that are too yellow based. For example, yellow golds or greens can make your skin look washed out and sallow. If you do wear these be sure to off-set it with something more cool based like a darker version of the colour or a dark liner.

If you like a little more colour for the day try soft sheer pinks and plum shades - nothing too candy coloured because it can look too garish under office lighting. If you can't part with your green eye shadow this spring/summer (green is a hot colour for this season!), try a khaki-green shade that has a sheer satin or matte finish, nothing too metallic or shimmery. Instead of applying it all over the eye, apply it as a liner instead by dampening your angled brush with a bit of water and mixing with the powder. If you're one of those girls that loves to smoke out her eyes 24/7, opt for a charcoal or slate grey rather than black as it can be too overdone for the office or daytime.

Don't be afraid to bump it up for night time. Have fun mixing different textures together like matte colours with glittery eyeliner or metallic shadows with a liquid liner. I love bright emerald greens, royal purples, turquoise, seafoam, and copper on Asian skin tones. If you're daring, candy hot pinks and tangerine oranges are also beautiful when applied properly.



Technique:
Daytime: Start off by dusting the lid (from lash line to brow bone) with a champagne or beige tone. To give the eye more dimension, choose a neutral tone 2 or 3 shades darker than your base ( I like MAC's Charcoal Brown, Satin Taupe, or Wedge) for your crease. Using your shading brush you're going to apply the colour starting from the inner crease and working your way to the outer crease similar to the pictures on the left. Because you're creating the illusion of a crease you want to make sure you use your blending brush to blend out any harsh edges. Just run your brush back and forth across your crease until the colour looks soft and almost appears airbrushed. I've seen some Asian women who purposely draw a straight line as a crease which ends up looking unnatural.



Next line your eyes with a deep chocolate brown or soft black in a waterproof pencil or gel liner (MAC's Fluidline in Blacktrack and Dip Down are awesome). Some Asian women's lids extend all the way down to their lashline and the liner on top is usually not visible. If this is the case with you, skip liner on the top and apply liner on the bottom lash line with your angled brush. Soften the liner with your smudging brush. I sometimes find that not lining the bottom lash line can make the eyes disappear and lining them actually gives more definition. If your lid doesn't extend into your lash line, line just the top lash line from inner to outer corner for a polished finish. Match with a neutral brush like MAC's Cubic or Prism and sheer lipstick or gloss in a dusty rose or a pinky beige like Nars' Stolen Kisses lip gloss (caramel pink) or Dolce Vita lipstick (sheer dusty rose).



Nighttime:
Smoldering: Go for a sultry eye using chocolate bronzes, charcoal blacks, metallic emeralds, eggplant purples and deep navy. To give the eye an extra smoky effect, I like to line the lash with a khol pencil like MAC's Eye Khol in Teddy, Smolder, Prunella, Tarnish, or Blooz and smudge it up into the crease area. I then apply a shadow in the same colour over top of the liner and blend it into the crease. It may look messy at first but do not fear because your blending brush is here! Work your blending brush back and forth until the edges are blurred or softened. Line the bottom lash line with the khol pencil and smudge. Apply the same colour shadow over top. Accentuate the brow bone with a light shimmery shade. Curl lashes and add lots of mascara - if you're a pro add some falsies to the outer edge of your lash. Brush on some bronzer or soft peach blush onto the hollows of the cheeks (if you have round cheeks like me avoid applying blush right on the apples - it just accentuates the roundness even more). Swipe on a peachy nude or pale pink gloss.



Classic but Modern: I LOVE this look. It's a softer and flirtier version of the classic look: soft eyes, black liner, defined brows, subtle rouge on the cheeks and a red pout. On the eyes, go for shimmery shades in pale golds or silver like MAC's Eye Paint in Base Gold or Nars' Single Eyeshadow in Bombshell. Apply on the top and bottom. For depth, add a soft brown or taupe in the outer crease. Line the eyes with a liquid liner like MAC's LiquidLast Liner in Point Black. If you prefer something softer smudge a black shadow into your lash line. Most Asian women have next to nothing lashes. If you're going to do this look I would go all the way and apply fake lashes. Fill in your brows and make sure they are well defined. To learn how to apply falsies read my older post: Make-up 101: Creating the Perfect Smoky Eye. Apply a soft pink blush on the cheeks like MAC's Pink Swoon for fairer skin or Dame for darker skin. What makes this look more updated is the undefined glossy red lips. Fill in your lips with a red shade like Nars' Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Cruella for fair skin and Forbidden Red for golden undertones. Soften with your fingers and apply a shiny gloss like MAC's Lip Gelee in Dewy Jube over top.



Colourful and Fun: If you like to have fun with your make-up try colours in bright turquoise shades mixed with violets, or emerald greens with bright golds, or red coppers with citrusy oranges (I like MAC's Parfait Amour, Tilt, Steamy, Humid, Juxt, Amber Lights, Bronze, Mulch, Paradisco, Coppering, and Goldmine). If you're going to use a lot of bright shades on the eye, keep the lips muted. Don't be afraid to try glitter either (just don't over do it - you don't want to look like a walking disco ball). If you're new to wearing colour don't think you have to apply every bright colour under the sun all at once (like the picture on the left). The formulations these days are more sheer than the 70's and 80's (thank god). Swipe on a shimmery green shadow, some liner, mascara, and gloss and you're set for the night. If you really aren't comfortable with colour on your lids, line the eyes with a metallic or glitter pencil in turquoise instead. It'll be edgy but still you.

That completes our lesson! This is only a guide line so figure out what really works for you. Whatever you do, remember to have FUN! Don't be discouraged if you don't get it perfect the first time around - practice makes perfect. Work with your eye shape. It can be frustrating and confusing trying to figure out what your skin's undertones are, but don't hesitate to ask a make-up artist for help. If there is a particular look you like in a magazine, practice copying it until you perfect it. Be proud of your unique eye shape and let those eyes shine!

If this was helpful, please let me know. If you still have questions or are confused, feel free to leave a comment and I will answer them right away. Thanks!

• ASIAN - AFRO • ( Master Class ) / ENERO 11 - 2010

El maquillaje es un arte lleno de color, luces, sombras y grafismos que emplea al cuerpo humano como lienzo.

Las características de este vivo tapiz sobre el que vamos a plasmar nuestro trabajo condicionará nuestro maquillaje y el resultado final del mismo.

En este sentido, debemos tener en cuenta que no se seguirán las mismas técnicas a la hora de maquillar una piel caucásica que al trabajar sobre pieles negras o asiáticas.
...
Cada tipo de piel necesitará seguir unas pautas básicas que si se cumplen minuciosamente nos llevarán hasta una maquillaje de éxito ( el tipo de base exacto , la forma ideal de ojos y la paleta de colores adecuada )

Es por eso que he elaborado esta MASTER CLASS ( 6:30pm - 8.30pm )

Dirigido a maquilladores(as) profesionales como siempre, aficionados(as) e incluso chicas con los razgos ya mencionados para conocimientos de automaquillaje.

En el que aprenderas lo que debemos tener en cuenta antes durante y despues de la aplicación y técnicas de maquillaje para ambas pieles y razgos etnicos teniendo en cuenta lo sgte :

ASIAN

- en el caso de las mujeres asiáticas es importante ser prudentes en la elección de los colores, ya que su cutis se caracteriza por esa tonalidad amarilla

- los tonos grises, los degradados en castaño e incluso, el verde bronce en determinados cutis, realzarán los característicos ojos asiáticos

AFRO

- para las pieles negras las bases de maquillaje tienen que ser lo más mates posible, y más aterciopelados que satinados

- los labios de las mujeres de color suelen ser bastante gruesos por lo que se recomienda hacer el trazo en el interior de los mismos para disminuirlos ligeramente

y mas tips para cada razgo !!


El objetivo: proporcionarte el conocimiento necesario para el manejo de los productos y herramientas que utilizados con criterio contribuirán a mejorar tus habilidades como make-up artist o aprender a maquillarte adecuadamente como tal.

mayor info : rahmansouri@hotmail.com

http://rahmansouri.com/ - 833*5450 / 997783070 / 999058807

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